Oh Paris, the city of light! It can be overwhelming to decide what to do in Paris. The city has over 11 million residents and 20 large neighborhoods (not counting all of the suburbs!). Of course, you must see the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, and the Arc de Triomphe, but Paris has so much more to offer! You could spend an entire month there, but for your first 3 days, here are my recommendations.

Day 1 in Paris: 6éme Arrondissement (Left Bank)

White building with blue doors and windows on the left bank — A Charming Building in the 6th Arrondissement

Just across the river from the most iconic sites in Paris, the 6th Arrondissement is to Paris what Chelsea is to Manhattan - more lived in than the central city, but still stunning, vibrant, and with lots of fun things to do.

Breakfast: Les Deux Magots

Breakfast in Paris should include time at a bustling café, and my personal favorite is Les Deux Magots. Roughly translated to “The two Chinese figurines,” this mainstay dukes it out with Café de Flore as the most iconic Parisian café. Prices are slightly inflated here, but it’s not out of the realm of Parisian prices. It’s probably best you get used to epicurean Parisian sticker shock early, anyway.

Morning: Wander the Musée de Cluny

This tucked-away wonder will be a highlight of your trip. Housed on the site of a former Roman bathhouse, the museum specializes in Medieval and pre-Medieval art found in and around France (in contrast to the Louvre, which sources its collections from around the world, for better or worse). The museum is calm, beautiful, and serene; not to mention, one of the most accessible museums in Paris. It has many lifts and a route specifically planned for visitors with mobility disabilities.

Lunch: Polidor

From one iconic brasserie to another, Polidor is a vibrant spot with immaculate Art Nouveau vibes. Tourists and locals flock there at all times of day, and the menu is supremely French. On weekends you can get parmentier de confit de canard - juicy stewed duck under a layer of broiled mashed potatoes.

Afternoon: Browse the Bookshops on the Left Bank

shakespeare and company shopfront what to do in Paris — The shopfront of Shakespeare and Company

It’s perhaps a bit ironic that Paris houses one of the most iconic English language bookshops in the world - Shakespeare and Company. This shop has a great view of Notre Dame’s stately towers from its cobbled hearth - which is wonderful, because you’ll likely have to wait in line to enter. Less popular, but no less charming, you can find San Francisco Book Co and Abbey Bookshop just a short walk away.

Dinner/Night: Les Botanistes

This charming, out-of-the-way bistro has a place in the Michelin guide. Fear not - this whole in the wall is as far from a snooty French restaurant as you can get. They make simple dishes (like mushroom soup or potatoes au gratin) the best you’ve ever had them. With a side of fresh baguette, charming atmosphere, and classic French decor, take the short walk from Saint-Germain-de-Prés (shhhh…it’s technically in the 7th) to visit and dine.

Day 2 in Paris: 1éme Arrondissement (City Center)

Splendid white building in Paris — A Zara housed in a beautiful white building.

Many of the most famous things to do in Paris are right in the center of the city! Treat yourself to a day in Paris’s most posh quarter.

Breakfast: Cafe 52

Set in the chic Grand Hotel du Palais Royal, sit for a perfect brunch at this bright, elegant spot. Classic cane bistro chairs get a fresh new life in a sunny limestone courtyard. The atmosphere has distinctly Bel-Air-meets-Belle-Epoque vibes, with fresh green juices, colorful plates, and a general air of health. Go on, pretend you’re Amanda Chantal Bacon for a day.

Morning: Shopping at the Galeries Lafayette

Is this the most beautiful shopping mall in the world? Perhaps. The Galeries Lafayette department stores have locations in sophisticated places like Berlin, Luxembourg, and Dubai, but the Paris Haussmann location is the gilded, social-media-famous shop of your dreams. With over 7 floors of goods, there’s much to see and buy. If perfume, lingerie, or other sensual Gallic pleasures are on your list, buy them at this iconic magasin.

Lunch: New Balal

Leave it to me to find delicious Indian food in any city. With gilt accents and dim lighting, New Balal trades in the atmosphere of a traditional brasserie and the food of a traditional Indian and Pakistani establishment. The service is highly attentive and the flavors are more subtle. From exquisite naan to whisper-light gulam jamun (fried cardamom balls in a delicate, sugary rosewater bath) each course is worth savoring.

Afternoon: Visit the Musée des Arts Décoratifs

Elaborate green bed hanging at the musee des arts decoratifs what to do in paris

In a city stuffed with gorgeous art and culture, this was by far my favorite museum. Listen, the Louvre is gorgeous and iconic, but it is also crowded, confusing, and not very accessible (lots of half staircases with no ramps). This museum, which houses historical interior design and household objects in a neat U-shaped layout, sits right next door to the Louvre. For a reasonable price (€14 with no discounts as of this writing), you can walk through centuries of French interior architecture. The main hall has a rotating exhibit (I saw a fascinating one on 1980s furniture, fashion, and advertising), and the gift shop has immaculate vibes.

Dinner: La Table Cachée

Walk to the BVH department store, head through the lingerie department, and arrive at a small green curtain. Where are you? At the least audacious Michelin restaurant in the 1st! On the fifth floor balcony, La Table has a fantastic view of the Parisian town hall. You won’t want to skip the lemon pie, and (for a Michelin-recommended restaurant) the prices are actually quite fair.

Day 3 in Paris: 18éme Arrondissement (Montmartre)

Once a hard-scrabble working class village outside of Paris, an infusion of starving artists in the late-19th and early-20th centuries blossomed Montmartre into a creative mecca. Vincent van Gogh, Henri Matisse, Hector Berlioz, Salvador Dali, and Nadia and Lili Boulanger all called Montmartre home at one time. Though the tourist influence is obvious, her quaint charm still shines brightly in this hilly outpost.

Breakfast: Café des Deux Moulins

Amélie lovers, this one’s for you. The immediately recognizable red awnings of this famous café call to tourists and locals alike. Open from 7am-2am daily, you could go at any time, but if you pop in for a quick pain au chocolat and café au lait for your petit déjeuner, you’ll get all the charm without the crowds.

Morning: Wander the Streets

Montmartre is a very hilly area, which means on a clear day in the winter you get an excellent view of the city through the trees. It also means a lot of steps. You’ll want to wander its cobblestoned streets, but for minimum exertion, I recommend this route:

Take the metro to the Abbesses station
Walk about 8-10 minutes to La Maison Rose
From there, walk south then west along the Rue Norvins
Watch the artists work on the Place du Tertre
Keep going west to the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur
Walk down the steps into the denser parts of Montmartre

Lunch: Le Bonne Franquette

Colorful cafe in montmartre what to do in paris

Before you head down the steps in front of the basilica- double back to this delightful 16th century brasserie. The food is traditional French - with the distinct air of head-scratching peasant fare society seems to have moved away from. Don’t let the sausage-heavy menu deter you, this place is a gem! The service is crisp and efficient, the prices are fair, and the interior design is a little cheesy - but authentic nonetheless.

Afternoon: Dalí Paris

Though technically born in Spain, Salvador Dalí’s work took on the character of Montmartre when he lived there. It’s only fair that there would be a museum dedicated to his works here. A collection of the surrealist artist’s works live tucked away on the Rue Poulbot. If you’re feeling silly, take the Montmartre funicular down from the top of the hill to the street below. Dalí would approve.

Dinner: Chez Pitou

This boisterous bistro is perfectly Montmartre - a blend of sophisticated food and joyous atmosphere. They often have live music, and fun, friendly staff. It’s just off the abbesses metro stop, which means you can turn your trip to Montmartre into a neat circle. A little whimsical, a lot delicious - make sure you order steak.