For my 30th birthday, I decided to treat myself to a solo trip to Paris from the US. After romanticizing the city for most of my childhood, I went for the first time in high school and had a highly mediocre experience. Being 16 days into a 20 day tour of 7 European nations will do that to a person. I wanted to mark the transition into a new decade by reclaiming my relationship to the City of Light, and boy howdy, did I. Here is everything I did on my sojourn to France.
Activities for First-Timers to Paris
Because I had been to Paris before, there were a few things I didn’t need to experience again, so I didn’t include them in my itinerary. However – do not miss them yourself! These experiences deserve a spot on your trip plan.
- Climb to the top of the Eiffel Tower. The lines are long, but it really is worth it to see one of the largest, most beautiful, and most culturally rich cities in the world spread out under your feet like a blanket. Just don’t hang out underneath the tower directly afterward. To avoid crowds and hassle, move over to the Jardin de la Tour Eiffel, right next door.
- Take a tour of Notre Dame. I have actually never done this, as the first time the group I was with went to the war museum instead, and the second time it was closed due to the fire. But now that the cathedral has reopened, give it top billing in your plans.
- Visit the Louvre. It’s the world’s most famous art museum for a reason! It’s huge, and it’s beautiful. Don’t kill yourself trying to see the Mona Lisa (unless you go at night – more below).
- Breeze by the Arc de Triomphe. You don’t need to take a special trip here, as any activity near the Champs-รฉlysรฉes will take you right past it. Take time to visit only if you want a good-quality photo. In that instance, get up nice and early to avoid the crowds.
- Drink a chocolat chaud (literally anywhere). Of all the classic French foods to try, hot chocolate (chocolat chaud) must go on your list. Made from melted chocolate, not cocoa powder, you’ll want to grab it at every shop (much like gelato in Italy).
Where I Went
Museums
Late Night at the Louvre
As I mentioned above, the Louvre is a must-visit for a first-timer to Paris! To avoid the crowds without lining up at the crack of dawn – go late. The museum is open until 9 p.m. on Wednesdays and Fridays. It’s a huge museum with much to see, so make sure to book a ticket around 7 p.m. This will ensure you have time to stroll around without running into giant tour groups. While the Mona Lisa is the crown jewel of the collection, I have a soft spot for the statue of Athena, personally.
Musรฉe de Cluny
In thinking back, I can’t quite remember how I found this little gem. I think it simply popped up on my Google Maps, because it was the next neighborhood over from my hotel. Built in a former Roman bathhouse, the Musee de Cluny is dedicated to promoting medieval and baroque art. I found this museum to be very soothing and easy to navigate. The showstopper was the room with the Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries, but the whole place was a treasure.
Even better: this is perhaps the most accessible museum I’ve been to. Not only did each area have a dedicated entrance for wheelchairs and other mobility devices, but the curators created a map recommending a route through the museum for those who needed additional accommodations. Since the Louvre is full of half-staircase areas impossible to navigate in a wheelchair, Cluny was a breath of fresh air.
Musรฉe des Arts Dรฉcoratifs
Calling all interior design lovers! In the same complex as the Louvre, you can find this incredible gem. This museum had both full rooms decorated in historical styles, but also some really well-executed special exhibitions and a wealth of objects from each era, including one of the first ever modern playing cards. The curation was excellent – everything was organized and easy to understand. There were lots of creative twists in the museum that made it a fun visit.
It was a little more cumbersome from an accessibility standpoint, but you could still access all museum areas easily if needed! Best of all, it had one of the best museum gift shops I’ve seen. Lots of colorful art and funky objects. Leave extra room in your suitcase for this one.
Shopping
Galeries de Lafayette
Perhaps the most famous mall in the world! More open and easier to navigate than Herrod’s of London, it is nevertheless stuffed with amazing shops and restaurants. As a lingerie lover, I treated myself to a set from one of my favorite French brands, Lise Charmel. Whatever your pleasure is, indulge it here.
Note: It’s actually a series of several buildings. If you’re looking for the building with the glass Coupole, make sure you’re in the Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann.
Artists in Montmartre
Lots of travel blogs will tell you not to do this. It’s touristy schlock, they say. On the other hand, real art made by a real person is one of the most precious parts of life. At the end of the day, buying from an artist on the street gave me my most precious souvenir from this trip. Famously, artists hang out in the Place du Tertre in Montmartre. Many of them can be pushy with tourists, and you must be firm. However, the only artist that approached me got so excited that I was a singer, he forgot to push me to sit for a portrait. I bought an oil painting of a field by an elderly woman named Danielle Rueo. Most artists do not allow photos or videos, but I got a video of Danielle painting just for myself and my own memories.
Shakespeare and Company
Perhaps the most famous English-language bookstore outside of the English speaking world! I am not someone who usually stands in line for things, but I stood in line for this shop and to me, it was worth it. The first store of this name opened in 1919, but its current iteration has stood at 37 rue de la Bรปcherie since 1957. Located at kilometer zero, the place where all French roads begin, the shop fits comfortably under the weight of the surrounding history.
The shop is really small with the kind of cozy, cramped feeling all good bookstores share. Just know it is also quite full of people, which lends a more claustrophobic air to the cramped feeling. All the patrons were well-behaved and considerate, however. Just know you might not be able to browse at a slow pace.
Cultural Institutions
Carrousel de Saint-Pierre
Located at the foot of the Basilique du Sacrรฉ-Cลur, this enchanting carousel is good for photos and people watching. You can also take a funicular (mini gondola) from the top of the hill to the bottom for a small fee. It wasn’t an astounding place that I’d go out of my way to see, but it’s a lovely little site in Montmartre. If I returned with kids, we’d definitely hang out in this area. There’s also a public bathroom here with a self-cleaning mechanism that saved my life (slight exaggeration).
Basilique du Sacrรฉ-Cลur
I’m not Catholic, but I love a good Basilica, Cathedral, or other well-designed or otherwise culturally important religious site. Many of the cathedrals and chapels in Paris were destroyed during the revolution, as the monarchy and the church were considered in cahoots. Sacre Coeur was built in the mid-19th century, but has a much older sense of reverence. You can visit the Basilica for free. It’s a quiet and introspective way to spend an hour or so.
Jardin des Tuileries
While Italians have the stronger reputation for il dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing) the French love public relaxation. I went in early spring, but still, I found plenty of people sitting outside at cafes and parks. Make sure to include quiet time on your trip to Paris. At the Jardin, I grabbed a public chair, dragged it into the sunshine, and read for hours. Sheer bliss.
Chez Nadia Boulanger (36 Rue Ballu, Paris, France)
Perhaps the nerdiest thing I did on my trip (and I’d do it again!). I wrote an undergraduate thesis on Nadia Boulanger – a French composer and pedagogue who trained so many American musicians (like Aaron Copland and Quincy Jones) that people joked she had a “boulangerie” (bakery) for musicians. She was born and raised in Montmartre, and seeing a street almost entirely unchanged in a century connected me to one of my historical role models.
What I Ate
Full disclosure: my trip was totally derailed by some late night espresso. I only ate breakfast once, at my hotel, the Hotel Left Bank St. Germain des Pres, and it was excellent. Here are some places I wanted to go to but didn’t adequately plan for:
Polidor
This sweet art nouveau spot was JAM PACKED at lunch with locals and tourists alike. I sat elbow to elbow with my fellow patrons, but I didn’t mind, as it has a lively atmosphere. Like most French restaurants, the service was brisk and efficient. I had the duck parmentier – a classic dish similar to shepherd’s pie, but with braised duck instead of ground meat filling.
New Balal
Perhaps it’s because I’m American, but I love exploring multicultural options in large cities. Paris has lots of amazing African options, but I was craving one of my favorite types of food – Indian. The servers here were exceptional – mine let me finish my book before coming over to take my plate and inquire about dessert. I had my first gulab jamun (pictured), fried cake balls in rose syrup.
LโEpi Dupin
I had one of the most creative meals of my life here (like the shallots with coffee reduction pictured). Not all the way to ultra-chic, so it’s a great way to dip your toe in creative gastronomy. This restaurant is also called just “Dupin,” but the full title helped me more when searching for it.
La Bonne Franquette
Probably the most touristy (and most French) restaurant I visited. I didn’t research this place ahead of time (unlike everywhere else). I just popped in because I like the outside. Despite being obviously set up for big groups, I still had a nice, tranquil meal here! I had the house special, beluga lentils with pistachio sausage. While the color contrast in the dish was a bit jarring for a non-French palate, the taste was hearty and filling.
Les Botanistes
Named for the booksellers along the Seine, this cozy spot made it to my list of my favorite restaurants in the world. I didn’t take any photos inside to preserve the sanctity of my meal. Rest assured – the decor and atmosphere was the ultimate in Parisian chic. The menu was simple but brilliantly executed, the table bread was freshly cut slices of baguette, and it simply felt like the ultimate Parisian restaurant.
What I’ll Do in Paris Next Time
Take More Cabs
When traveling, I tend to prioritize public transportation and trains. First of all, I like taking trains, secondly, it saves a lot of money, and third, it gives you a good feel for the city’s atmosphere. However, Paris is one of the most confusing cities I’ve ever walked in, because so many of the intersections are diagonal. It can be hard to even stay on the same road! A few times, I regretted not grabbing a cab back to the hotel from dinner. I never felt especially unsafe, but that little indulgence would’ve improved my trip.
Indulge in a Michelin-starred restaurant
While I took inspiration from the Michelin list for my nice dinners, I didn’t go to a starred restaurant. As a French company, naturally France has the most Michelin-starred restaurants. In fact, I planned to visit Qui Plume la Lune for my birthday, but it happened to fall on a Monday, and most fine dining restaurants are closed on Mondays. You better believe I’ll make a reservation there next time!
Visit the Catacombs
I was looking forward to visiting the Catacombs of Paris as the highlight of my trip! I love history, especially when it has a spooky edge, and the catacombs top many spook lovers’ lists. However, huge protests broke out in the neighborhood when I was there, and my ticket was cancelled and refunded. Next time, I’ll be going for sure!
Explore New Neighborhoods
Paris has 20 arrondissements, or neighborhoods, arranged in a spiral out from the 1st, as well as the รle de la Citรฉ, the city-within-a-city on an island in the Seine. For my trip, I was largely in the 5th, 6th, 1st, 2nd, and 20th. That leaves 15 whole neighborhoods I didn’t get to see! Much of the cultural landmarks are in or near the 1st, so I’d love to go to branch out to more far-flung neighborhoods.
Places I’ll Shop:
- Marchรฉ aux puces St. Ouen – a very old flea market on the outskirts of Montmartre. It’s not very public transport friendly, but when I go back, I’ll budget extra for shipping.
- Librarie Galignani – the oldest English language bookshop in France!
- Marin Montagout – a trรจs franรงais shop I planned to visit after the catacombs (until my tickets were cancelled).
Tips for Visiting Paris Alone
After living by myself in Atlanta, and traveling to NYC alone several times, I felt pretty equipped to handle traveling in France, as streetwise behavior in Paris is essentially the same as most large US cities. (By some metrics, even safer). That being said, here are a few tips to feel more secure.
- Don’t wear headphones, this can make you an easy target for thieves. In the same vein, don’t scroll incessantly in public. Oblivious = easy pickings.
- Wear a cross-body bag that zips. They’re harder to pickpocket or steal.
- Wear a fake ring. It won’t fend off all unwanted advances, but it’ll help some.
- Come up with a cover story. I was invited out a few times, but for the sake of caution I declined. Saying you’re meeting up with someone is a good way to politely decline. Normally I love chatting up strangers, but I exercise more caution when traveling alone.
- Learn emergency numbers. In France, the emergency services number is 112.
- Share your location and itinerary with friends and family. If, God forbid, something happens, they’ll be able to spot it.
- Don’t wear a beret. Those hats are the easiest way to spot a non-Parisian in the crowd.
What questions do you have about solo travel or Paris? Ask away in the comments!
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