Thanks to the over 30 million people in the US with Irish heritage, Ireland is a bucket list trip for many in the US. The rolling emerald hills, multicolor cottages, and dramatic mists off the ocean spawned centuries of fairy tales. It’s a great first country abroad for a lot of people from the US – many social customs are similar, many people speak English primarily (more on that later), and it’s a pretty small country. But before you book your trip, here are things to know before you go to Ireland.
Northern Ireland Is NOT the Same as the Republic of Ireland
People use the term “Ireland” to refer to the entire island, when actually it is divided into two countries: Northern Ireland, and the Republic of Ireland. Northern Ireland is part of the United Kingdom, and the Republic of Ireland is its own independent nation. This post refers primarily to the Republic of Ireland, though I’m sure some things apply to Northern Ireland as well.
Ireland has been subject to some form of English occupation since 1169. In 1921, after a series of increasingly violent clashes, it was split into the two countries we have today. The “Troubles” were a period of time in Northern Ireland beginning in the late 1960s when the IRA (Irish Republican Army) engaged in guerilla warfare against the British military, which ended in a formal peace treaty in 1998.
That is a VERY broad overview of a long and complex history. There are still sore spots around the Irish vs. English and Catholics vs. Protestants all over the island. If you don’t know much about the history there, I recommend you avoid talking about it. If you’d like to learn more, Say Nothing by Patrick Radden Keefe is a great starting point (as is the television show based on his book). The Netflix comedy Derry Girls also does a great job at capturing life in Northern Ireland in the 90s (while being just overall hilarious).
Respect Irish Language and Culture
One thing you’ll notice straight off the plane: signs all over the country are in both English and Irish Gaelic (which speakers refer to as Irish). Irish is the first official language of the country, and English is second. Many people still only speak English, but you can find strong grassroots efforts to raise children as Irish speakers. Irish words are sprinkled throughout the lexicon, so it’s good to know a few to help you navigate.
Irish Words and Slang to Know:
- Craic – pronounced, “crack,” this word means a bit of fun and is generally a good thing. You might go down to the pub for a bit of craic, or say that someone has cracking hair. You can also use it for gossip or news (“what’s the craic?”).
- Garda – pronounced, “guard-ah” this word means “police.” The plural is gardaí (“guard-ee”), and Irish people commonly call the police “the guards.”
- Sláinte – pronounced, “slawn-cha” it means health and is a somewhat old-fashioned toast. If you want to be REALLY old-fashioned, you can answer chugat (hoo-gat).
- Céad míle fáilte – pronounced, “kade meel-uh fall-chuh,” it means “a hundred thousand welcomes.” You won’t hear people say it, but you will see it all over public houses, especially in tourist areas.
- Eejit – the colloquial way Irish people spell “idiot.”
- The Jacks – the bathroom, although the Britishisms “loo” and “WC” are commonly used as well.
- Yer Man – if someone calls a person “yer man,” they do not literally mean the man associated with you. Generally it means, “him” or “that man.”
- So it is – Irish people will often tack this on to a normal sentence, the way an American might add, “you know?” or a Canadian might say, “eh.”
Gaeltacht – Gaelic Zones
In certain parts of Western Ireland, everything is in Irish and people speak primarily Irish as a part of reclaiming their heritage. After all, under English occupation, people were forbidden from speaking Irish for decades.
Enough people speak English that you can still find your way around, but don’t expect to be catered to. Before going to a Gaeltacht, I recommend looking up the pronunciation of landmarks, restaurants, and lodging and writing it down for yourself. It’s a sign of respect to engage with the culture rather than blithely assuming everyone will speak English for you.
Air Conditioning Is Rare
As a small Island in the North Atlantic, Ireland doesn’t exactly have a tropical climate. The sea is storm-tossed and dark blue, with winds and mists constantly billowing off it. Farther inland, the weather is less tempestuous, but still pretty mild. A raincoat, sweaters, and waterproof shoes are a must for those traveling to Ireland.
Because the thermometer rarely goes above 24C or 75F, that also means air conditioning is quite rare. Thanks to climate change, warm days happen more and more often, but it’s still almost never necessary. The Dublin airport, for example, does not have air conditioning. Even many rental cars don’t have air conditioning, and taxi drivers tend to keep windows cracked all the time in the summer. If climate control is important to you, make sure to book accommodations with A/C. Just know it might come at a premium.
Irish People Are VERY Friendly
Irish people say someone has “the gift of gab” to mean they’re friendly and chatty, and compared to the reserved British or Germans, that applies to just about every Irish person. Folks from the Midwest US will feel right at home, for even in cosmopolitan, crowded Dublin people say, “sorry” when brushing up too close to you. In fact, you’ll stand out if you don’t have super-solicitous manners.
On another level, don’t be surprised if an Irish person jumps into your conversation! Not everyone is that outgoing of course, but Irish folks love a bit of craic, and it’s easy to chat people up at a bar or even just on the street. This is less true in very touristy areas, but something about Irish hospitality opens up people from all over the world for a bit of a chat. Keep yourself open and remember to have fun!
Tips for Driving in Ireland
One thing the Irish kept from their English occupation is driving on the left side of the road and the right side of the car. If you rent a car (which I recommend outside of Dublin), put your most trustworthy driver on it. In addition to driving on the other side of the road, Irish roads are small and twisty, with thick brush that can make judging the ditch almost impossible. Be patient and cautious, and leave yourself plenty of time to get anywhere. You’ll enjoy the view no matter what
Keep in mind…
- Buses have right of way – large tour buses are common in certain areas, and you should always cede to them on a narrow country road.
- Wave at locals – just like in the rural US, a two finger salute from your steering wheel is an expected gesture when you pass someone.
- Parking requires patience – especially in old villages, parking comes at a premium. It will probably require walking on a large hill.
It’s Still a Catholic Country
Perhaps as a 400 year long form of protest against English Anglicanism, nearly 70% of Irish people are Catholic. Catholic services are often held in Gaelic or Latin, and religious iconography is absolutely everywhere. Not a lot of Irish folks will proselytize to you (the saturation point for recruitment is full) but Catholicism is as integral to Irish culture as folk tales. Don’t be thrown off by casual mentions of religion.
There aren’t necessarily a lot of religious laws to consider, but there are a few things to keep in mind. First, many businesses are closed or have reduced hours on Sunday. Be sure to plan for a more low-key day on Sunday. Additionally, large churches of historical significance (St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Christ Church Cathedral come to mind) charge for admission. This doesn’t apply to services or events, but you can’t take photos or film without paying admission.
Erase Your Image of Dublin
Before going, many people (myself included) have a quaint vision of Dublin. Perhaps you’re picturing colorful timbered buildings with charmingly bowed roofs. In reality, it’s a vibrant, diverse, cosmopolitan city of over a million people. Though not as large as other European capitals, it’s still busy and urban. Political graffiti shares street space with centuries-old cobblestones, and it’s one of the most accessible cities in Europe.
Speaking of politics, Irish folks tend to be very progressive politically, especially in Dublin. Protests are common, as is politically provocative art. Irish writers and thinkers like James Joyce, Oscar Wilde, and Seamus Heaney are known for the social and political commentary infusing their works. The Guinness Storehouse tour, in particular, highlights the revolutionary spirit that characterizes the city and still infuses Dublin today. I highly recommend it if you’re interested in learning more about the history of the city. Plus, thanks to roasting barley, the whole neighborhood has the delightful aroma of burnt marshmallows.
Drinking Has Its Own Language
If you’re a recovering alcoholic, Ireland may not be the place to go. Drinking is an enormous part of culture there, as the local pub serves as the center of social life for all major life events from baptisms to wakes. Many pubs will be full on a random weeknight, and live music is even more common.
Ireland is home to famous alcoholic brands like Jameson Whisky, Tullamore Dew, and many regional variations of red ales. But the centerpiece of Irish drinking culture, the queen of the Island, is undoubtedly Guinness stout.
My Goodness, My Guinness
If you’ve never had it, Guinness is a sweet, dark, malty beer with tiny carbonation created with nitrogen. A crucial rite of passage in drinking a Guinness is splitting the G – drinking enough in your first gulp of Guinness that your beer splits the Guinness logo on the glass. If you like sweet alcohol, order a Guinness and black – the bartender will add sweet black currant syrup to your beer for a sort of grown-up Shirley Temple.
Do NOT order an “Irish Car Bomb.” The name of the drink refers to the fact that the IRA commonly carried out attacks via setting bombs in parked cars. It is considered in extremely poor taste to order one in Ireland, and no matter how cute or provocative you think you’re being, even the mildest Irish publican will not tolerate your crude attempt at a joke. If you want the drink, simply order half a pint of Guinness and a shot of Bailey’s.
No One Cares About Your Irish Heritage
I’ll hold your hand when I tell you, gently but firmly, Irish people do not care about your ancestors. Unless they knew them personally, it is unlikely the shopkeeper in County Cork will care much about your great-great-great-grandma Eileen. It’s not that they don’t care, it’s that thanks to long stretches of outward immigration, there are only 7 million people on the island, and nearly 40 million people with Irish heritage in the United States alone.
There are still all kinds of ways to connect with your Irish roots. For example, Aran Sweater Market carries clan knits, woven knitwear in distinct patterns based on last names. Irish people are proud of their history and culture, and I encourage you to explore your own! Buy works by local artists and historians, research your ancestral lands and visit them. Just be respectful of the modern Irish and for the love of God, don’t blather on to unsuspecting locals who know approximately 95 other families with the last name O’Connell.
You Will Not Eat Healthily, But You Will Eat Well
While produce and fresh food is plentiful in grocery stores, most restaurants trend towards heavy meat-and-potato dishes. Americans catch a lot of flack for large portions, but the portions in pubs would easily bring the hungriest American macho man to his knees. Vegetarians and vegans will want to peruse menus ahead of time, as there’s no guarantee there will be diverse options (or any vegan option at all).
On the more casual side, going to the chipper (fish and chips shop) is an important weekly ritual in Irish households, and curried chips are a must. For a touristy stroll, a 99 (vanilla soft serve) can be found in just about every other shop, and it’s the perfect amount of ice cream to accompany your journey. They stick this chocolate wafer stick into them that defies the laws of science, but is absolutely delicious. And Banoffee Pie (a portemanteau of “banana” and “coffee”) is an Irish treat I have yet to find successfully replicated elsewhere.
All that said, high end restaurants can be found all over, and often pride themselves on fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. Especially in rural Ireland, where farming is a common profession, you can find restaurants that only source ingredients from a 40-mile radius. Make sure to pack your lactaid – Irish butter, cream, and milk are some of life’s great treasures.
Favorite Restaurants in Ireland
Homestead Cottage, Doolin. Situated in a small, white cottage, this Michelin darling has a creative tasting menu that draws largely from the large garden out front.
Chapter One, Dublin. I’ve never actually been here, but this cozy 2-star special in the basement of the Irish Writer’s Museum is on the top of my bucket list (if I can ever get a reservation).
Reggie’s Pizza, Dublin. Located in the trendy Rathmines neighborhood, this chic-yet-casual spot has mouthwatering sourdough pies and friendly service.
Fitz’s Pub, Doolin. More upscale than the surrounding (still delicious) pubs, Fitz’s has a 30-mile menu, with food sourced from within 30 miles.
If you’re looking for a trip that’s equal parts relaxed an intellectual, look no further than Ireland! Rife with history, culture, and beautiful vistas, there’s plenty love about the Emerald Isle.
