As a vintage lover and collector, going to estate sales has shown me a new perspective on the clothes worth valuing. See, I grew up in the era of fast fashion. Wet Seal (r.i.p.), Charlotte Russe, and Forever 21 were staples of my wardrobe into my 20s. I grew up with the implied cultural value that only new clothes equaled good clothes, and once an article of clothing reads “old,” it’s time to get rid of it. But in exploring the treasures left behind, it’s given me new perspective on my wardrobe, primarily in choosing and saving pieces that I love regardless of trends, and ultimately, how to purge your wardrobe.

However, I can’t advocate for hoarding every piece of clothing for the rest of your life. Every once in a while, clothes become so stained, threadbare, or ill-fitting that replacements are in order. If you’re looking to maintain a more sustainable wardrobe, that means the occasional re-evaluation. I’ve put together a step-by-step guide to purging your wardrobe while keeping your style.

Take a Closer Look at Your Wardrobe

Naturally, we grow attached to specific items of clothing. After all, clothing is a step beyond art, “because you live your life in it.” A sweater from a treasured grandmother, the pajama shorts we always wear when we’re sick, a nice shirt we bought with our first adult paycheck – all these things matter in often inexpressible ways.

Sometimes, however, sentimentality runs amok. For me, this happens when my day-to-day wardrobe contains far more clothes that hold memories than clothes I actually want to wear. Of course, there’s often overlap there. But if grandma’s sweater is threadbare far past the point of darning, it’s time to re-evaluate.

Common signs that your wardrobe needs going over include:

• More than half of your clothes do not fit you
• A significant number of items are threadbare or worn beyond repair
• More than half the items have gone unworn for the past year
• You’re struggling to find space for new items in your closet or drawers

I feel strongly about keeping nice items that hold emotional value for you, such as a dress or suit from a special occasion. I’ve shopped many an estate sale where these items were lovingly cared for and passed on. You don’t have to give an item away just because it no longer fits, but consider whether the logistical cost of keeping it balances well with your attachment.

Prepare Your Purge Toolkit

The best thing to do to prepare a wardrobe purge? A newly made bed. I’m serious. As a large, flat surface in your home, beds provide a good canvas for sorting and piling clothing. I find that when my bedroom is otherwise tidy, I can sort my things with fewer distractions.

In addition to your freshly made bed, the following things will help you with your quest for sorting:

• Clothing transportation: laundry baskets, clean trash bags, clean cardboard boxes, or reusable grocery bags
• Hangers, drawer dividers, and any other specialty organization products you may have
• Plastic containers or garment bags for safely storing sentimental items elsewhere
• A friend, sibling, or cousin who knows you well and can provide some objectivity

One final tip: wear flattering underwear that works under most clothing. Trying on clothing is a big part of sorting, and you don’t want your underwear showing through to skew your view of the garment.

The Step-by-Step Process to Clear Your Wardrobe

1. Empty the Closet

Marie Kondo advises to take everything out of your closet and drawers, and I do, too. First of all, it creates a blank slate in your closet. Secondly, it shakes up your perspective on the sweaters and pants you’ve been staring at in bewilderment for 5 years. It means you’ll need to set aside some serious time to clear your wardrobe, but I promise it’s worth it.

As you take everything out, group things by type. This has the dual purpose of keeping things organized as you go, and makes it easier to organize everything when you put it back. You might find a skirt you’ve been missing stuffed in a sock drawer, or a favorite pair of overalls amongst your pants.

2. Keep, Toss, Donate

Once everything is out and sorted by type, it’s time to get down to the real business: sorting. It’s time to decide what you’re going to keep, what you’ll toss in the trash, and what you’ll donate. As you get started on this process, remember these key considerations:

• Consider the condition. Pretend you’re shopping at a thrift shop. Would you purchase that item in its current condition? If not, it’s probably headed for the landfill regardless.
• Consider non-thrift options. Even if an item is in good condition, many thrift shops have to throw things away to make up for the large volume of donations they receive. Look for charities that gather specific items like coats or eyeglasses. Many large-scale clothing recycling programs end up in landfills anyway (as of this writing), but local options are worth looking into. Finally, have a clothing swap with your friends!
• Consider whether you can sell it. If you have the time or inclination, listing clothing on a site like Depop or Poshmark can be a good way to cut out the middle man (and see a little fruit of your labor). This is a great way to pass on that dress you loved but only wore once, and doesn’t hold much sentimentality.

3. Try Them On

Though it may be labor-intensive, I recommend taking a couple passes at your clothes. Once you’ve designated the first round of things to toss or donate, take a look at your remaining items. If you unearth a garment you haven’t worn recently, throw it on to make sure it still fits.

Fit also applies to items that you can technically get into, but may not feel totally comfortable wearing it. Comfortability applies to silhouette, material, and personal style, too. For example: regardless of my weight, I have never felt comfortable wearing bodycon dresses and skirts. Some people feel especially sensitive towards certain fabrics or cuts. If you love a shirt, but never wear it because the cuffs drive you nuts, it’s time to say goodbye.

4. Curate by Category

I have a confession: I may have a small addiction to white tops. Fully 30% of the tops in my wardrobe are white, and crucially, they’re all different from one another. If I see an item that comes in multiple colors, I usually want the white or cream one.

My white-top-overload means I need to be careful to curate the rest of my wardrobe in support of this. A crucial piece of building a wardrobe is thinking about how and when you’ll wear something. You don’t need to go fully into capsule-wardrobe-mode, but consider the practicality of each item you own by category.

This process can also help you identify gaps in your wardrobe! Do you have 4 black bras, all of them ill-fitting and sad? Time to toss them and get yourself a good one. You may realize you have a serious deficit of certain items, and far too many of another.

Of course, this is all relative. 3 high-quality pairs of jeans are far more valuable to your wardrobe than 100 shirts of middling quality. If you realize you need to replace or replenish specific items, focus on quality over quantity.

5. Dealing with Fashion FOMO

The main problem with Marie Kondo’s framing of “joy” for objects is that occasionally we have objects we need that don’t necessarily make us over the moon with creativity and zest for life. That black t-shirt may not be exciting, but if you wear it every laundry cycle, you’d better hold onto it.

On the other side of the coin, get really honest with yourself and your personality. Media places a lot of emphasis on trendiness as a marker of outward value. Frankly, however, not every trend is for everyone. And most people don’t notice whether or not you’ve worn that outfit before. This principle similarly applies to aspirational dressing. If you’re waiting to lose weight or gain an entirely different personality…it’s time to let that garment go, my friend.

6. Mindfully Re-Organize

Taking all of the above into consideration, now it’s time to put your things back. While this may seem daunting, break it down! First, find an album, podcast, or audiobook to listen to or a beloved movie or TV show to put on in the background. Second, look at your piles and decide where everything will go.

You can organize your closet by:

• Item type
• Color
• Sleeve length
• Material
• Season
• Occasion
• Any of the above in any combination!

You may also decide to put everything back in its original space, just with a little more breathing room than you had before.

Conclusion: The Start of a Lifelong Sartorial Relationship

Take a deep breath. You’re done! You’ve breathed new life into your wardrobe! Fresh energy is circulating all over your clothing and all you had to do was move some things around. Big re-evaluations like this don’t need to happen all the time. Now that you’ve got things in a good spot, you can move forward with more confidence in your wardrobe.

Dressing yourself is an ongoing process. The more you play with your personal style, the more on top of your wardrobe you’ll be! Now go forth and organize.