The next time you need to make dessert for a crowd, consider making cherry sonker! Not known much outside of North Carolina, you’ll come to love it. Baked in a large sheet pan with a golden, flaky crust on top, sonker sits somewhere between a pie and a cobbler. The thing that makes it sonker, though, is the delicious vanilla dip on the side. This recipe makes use of cherries for a delicious way to celebrate the end of summer.
What Is Sonker?
Originally from the Appalachian part of North Carolina, sonker exists to serve a simple fruit dessert to a large amount of people. Much like cobbler, sonker can be interpreted many different ways, by different folks, all of whom insist their recipe is the most correct. Regardless of the different variations, sonker has 3 essential components:
- Fruit
- A crust/dough
- “Dip” (a delicious vanilla sauce/frosting)
The most common way to make sonker according to the internet, consists of a layered technique very similar to a pie. All sonker recipes must be made in a large pan; individual sonker does not exist. Given that it’s the most ubiquitous, that’s the recipe style I chose, but I’m not coming to your holler and arguing with your Mamaw if her family recipe is different.
Several theories exist to explain the name. One theory states the name likely comes from the Scots word, which means a small hill or grassy knoll to sit on, and evolved to mean a small stuffed seat or saddle. Indeed, a proper sonker includes enough fruit to mound in a small pile in a large pan. However, the Scots word “sonker” actually means to boil gently, or simmer. It could also be a derivation of the word “sunk,” as the fruit shrinks a bit on serving. Whatever the case, sonker makes for a great dessert at a cookout or potluck.
Tips for Making Cherry Sonker
If you have lots of pie making experience, don’t worry about making sonker! The recipe is quite similar to a pie, only simpler in certain ways. For the three main components of the dish, know these tricks.
The Crust
Thanks to the powdered sugar, this crust is soft and springy. Not too delicate, this dough can take a bit of rough handling from a beginner if you need to scrap and start over. One mistake I made? Cutting the circles too close together! A soft, flaky golden crust is the perfect complement to the sweet filling, and when the holes are too large the ratio doesn’t work.
To make sure your holes are lined up, roll out your dough, then turn your (empty) baking pan upside down on top and press down lightly to create an impression in the dough. This will make sure you’re laying out your circles within the boundaries of the pan. Leave room for crust!
Also, because this dough is very stretchy, the circles may stretch out a bit on transfer. Practice makes perfect, but know that ovals will not affect the taste of your bake!
The Filling
This recipe requires a LOT of fruit – you’ll notice the quantities listed in pounds, not cups or grams. You can use fresh or frozen cherries in this recipe in the same quantities; once your cherries are pitted or thawed, it should come out to about the same.
You can easily substitute another favorite fruit – plums, apricots, mixed berries, and more – for cherries. Adjust the weight down if using a fruit (like raspberries) that don’t need any parts removed before baking.
For quicker baking, this recipe calls for instant tapioca to create a simple filling. If you prefer to omit it, simply combine all the filling ingredients in a saucepan over medium heat for about 5 minutes for a classic fruit pie filling.
The Dip
While a crucial part of the recipe, sonker dip must remain on the side when serving. Why? Because no one wants a soggy crust! Don’t pour on the dip until the last moment so you get the perfect combination of sweet and crisp.
Full disclosure: the “correct” texture for dip is close to a slightly thinner frosting. However, I haven’t achieved that yet in my Colorado kitchen (reducing things at high altitude is…tricky). If you’re impatient like me, it’s okay to leave it a little looser. But if you want thicker dip, be sure to watch your batch carefully to avoid scorching while its cooking.
Cherry Sonker Recipe
Cherry Sonker
Equipment
- Food processor optional
- Measuring cups & spoons
- rubber spatula
- Medium mixing bowl
- Deep 9×13 pan or a 10×14 pan
- medium saucepan
- Small mixing bowl
- Small whisk or fork
Ingredients
For the Crust
- 2 c all-purpose flour
- ¼ c powdered sugar
- ⅛ tsp salt
- 1 c cold butter cubed
- 2 large egg yolks
- ¼ c ice-cold water
For the Filling
- 5 lbs frozen cherries measured before thawing
- 1 ½ c granulated sugar
- ¾ c uncooked quick-cooking tapioca
- 1 tsp ground nutmeg
- ½ tsp salt
- 3 Tbs unsalted butter
- 1 large egg yolk
- 1 tsp water
For the Vanilla Dip
- 2 c half-and-half
- ¾ c granulated sugar
- ⅛ tsp salt
- 1 ½ Tbs cornstarch
- 1 ½ Tbs water
- 1 tsp vanilla
Instructions
For the Crust
- Whisk together the flour, powdered sugar, and salt.2 c all-purpose flour, ¼ c powdered sugar, ⅛ tsp salt
- Using a food processor (or by hand) add the butter to the flour mixture, and cut (using a pastry cutter or the blade of your processor) until it resembles coarse sand.1 c cold butter
- In a separate bowl, whisk together egg yolks and cold water until thoroughly combined. Stirring constantly, pour egg mixture into the dough, and mix until it begins to clump together.2 large egg yolks, ¼ c ice-cold water
- Lightly flour a portion of your counter and your (clean) hands. Take the dough and knead until it's nice and smooth (it only takes a few passes). Shape the dough loosely into a rectangle to make it easier to roll out later, then wrap it in an airtight wrap and chill in the fridge for at least an hour.
- Meanwhile, set the cherries out to thaw, and drain the juices once they're no longer frozen.
For the Filling
- Preheat oven to 350°F. In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, tapioca, nutmeg, and salt. Combine all berries in a large bowl. Stir together in a small bowl. Add to berries; toss gently to coat.1 ½ c granulated sugar, ¾ c uncooked quick-cooking tapioca, 1 tsp ground nutmeg, ½ tsp salt
- In a large mixing bowl, stir together the thawed cherries and the sugar mix until the berries are evenly coated.5 lbs frozen cherries
- Pour the berry mix into a deep 9×13" baking dish, or a similarly sized aluminum pan. It's okay if the fruit is over the top of the pan by a half inch or so; it'll shrink while baking. Evenly sprinkle the cubed butter over the top of the berries and set aside while you roll out the crust.3 Tbs unsalted butter
- Roll out the cold dough onto a floured surface with a rolling pin until it's a few inches longer and wider than your pan. Use a small circle cutter, like a tiny cookie cutter or the base of a piping tip, to cut holes all over the dough, making sure to leave enough room for a crust at the edge.
- Carefully pick up the dough and lay it on top of the cherry mixture. Cut off any excess around the pan with clean kitchen shears, then crimp the edges with a clean fork.
- In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and water. With a pastry brush, "paint" the egg yolk mixture all over the top crust.1 large egg yolk, 1 tsp water
- Bake for an hour and 15 minutes, or until the filling has slightly reduced and the crust is a crisp golden brown. If your crust seems to be cooking too fast, cover it with aluminum foil.
- Once out of the oven, let the sonker cool at room temperature for about 2 hours to let the filling set.
For the Dip
- In a medium sauce pan, stir together the half and half, sugar, and salt. Bring to a slight boil.2 c half-and-half, ¾ c granulated sugar, ⅛ tsp salt
- In a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and water until it forms a smooth paste. Stir into the boiling half and half.1 ½ Tbs cornstarch, 1 ½ Tbs water
- Stirring constantly, cook at a boil until the mixture is thick and bubbly, being careful to keep the milk from scorching.
- Strain the mixture through a fine mesh strainer (in case there's a film on top) into a small pitcher or large jar.
- Stir in the vanilla extract, and drizzle liberally over warm sonker.1 tsp vanilla
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